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When assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. But, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.